The 1970s represent a pivotal decade in Rolex history, a period of evolution and refinement that cemented the brand's position as a global icon. This era saw the continued success of established models alongside the introduction of new designs and technological advancements. While the precise definition of "Rolex 1970s Men's 39" lacks a singular, official Rolex designation (as Rolex doesn't categorize watches this way), it broadly refers to men's Rolex watches with approximately 39mm cases produced during the 1970s. This encompasses a significant range of models, each with its own unique story and appeal to collectors today. This article will explore the key models falling under this umbrella, delving into their design features, historical context, and current market value.
The Submariner's Reign: The Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680 and its Variations
No discussion of 1970s Rolex can ignore the Submariner Date, specifically the reference 1680. Although its official launch was in 1967, the 1680 dominated the decade, undergoing subtle yet significant changes throughout. Its 40mm case (slightly larger than the 39mm we're focusing on, but within the broader scope of the era's sizing) housed a robust movement and featured the iconic unidirectional rotating bezel, vital for divers. Variations within the 1680 family are numerous, making them a fascinating area for collectors.
* Dial Variations: The dial is where much of the 1680's character lies. Different dial markers (from luminous dots to baton-style indices), variations in the font of the text, and the presence or absence of specific markings (like the "METER FIRST" inscription) all contribute to the watch's unique identity. The transition from gilt to non-gilt dials occurred during this period, adding another layer of complexity to identification. Finding examples with original, un-restored dials significantly impacts value.
* Bezel Inserts: The bezel inserts, usually made of aluminum, also saw variations in color and patination over the years. The original black inserts have aged beautifully in many cases, developing a unique patina that collectors find desirable. Other colors, like Pepsi (red and blue) and Coke (red and black) bezels, are especially sought after and command premium prices. The condition of the bezel insert is crucial in determining a watch's value.
* Movement: The 1680 utilized the calibre 3035, a robust and reliable automatic movement. While servicing and maintaining the movement are essential for any vintage watch, the calibre 3035's reputation for durability contributes to the 1680's lasting appeal.
Beyond the Submariner: Other Notable 39mm-ish Rolex Models of the 1970s
While the Submariner dominates the conversation, other Rolex models from the 1970s deserve attention, especially those with case sizes around 39mm. This category encompasses a wide range of styles, catering to diverse tastes:
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